So it’s no secret I'm from the days of modelling where photographs were shot on film, and lighting tests were done by checking the shot on a Polaroid camera print out. But I’m not so old that I’m able to be: “I don't care about AI I will be dead before it impacts my industry.” When one of my senior engineers showed me the new ‘Sora’ from OpenAI, I did contemplate maybe now was a good time for retirement….
Generative AI is essentially a technological wizard that can conjure up images, videos, and even virtual models from thin air (or more accurately, from vast datasets). No more having to cast real models, who might have imperfections, or not exactly what your creative director had in mind when he said ‘edgy’ or ‘like a real mum.’
It's like having an artist and a data scientist in one, creating content that's both original (I mean, let’s debate what it's trained on later) and eerily realistic. And it’s already here and being used - Levis’ is already using AI models in online campaigns & ecomm. Midjourney and Dall-E do a not-bad job of creating fashion content, and they’re actually amazing if you feed them the right prompts. The implications for the modelling industry? Huge. But as with any major shift, it's a mix of good, bad, and downright complicated (someone get me a drink).
To be honest, as an ex-model, model agency owner, influencer, company director, and marketing consultant myself, I'm torn.
On one hand, we're looking at a future where fashion brands can whip up digital models tailored to their exact specifications without the logistical nightmares, but with the ultimate efficiency and cost savings. Plus, this tech isn't just about creating virtual models; it's also about designing virtual clothes and accessories.
A company called Fashable, part of NVIDIA Inception’s global network of tech startups, is already using generative AI to create virtual clothing designs, which not only speeds up the design process but also reduces the environmental impact of producing physical prototypes.
I kind of love in some ways that it democratises starting a fashion label (test out what your customers like before you manufacture it, make cool marketing campaigns without the traditional friction points mentioned above). I also can imagine a number of models being thrilled that they never have to do another ecomm shoot (front, back, sides - next outfit) again (if we just imagine in this utopian future they still get paid, or no longer need money because we have some amazing universal basic income thing finally sorted).
In other ways. I’m totally horrified.
Obviously in the short term, there's a real fear that as AI models become more prevalent, the demand for human models could take a hit, and that models’ likenesses will be used without their permission, or used to train AI that they are not compensated for (*every artist, writer, photographer and other creative whose content is being scraped now enters the chat). After all, why deal with the unpredictability of human schedules, personalities, and physical limitations when a computer can generate a flawless digital model in seconds to your exact brief, and have no feelings you need to deal with?!
If we don't find a way for models to be compensated for their use of image and likeness, what's to stop every brand from rolling out an AI-generated Gisele, Naomi, Kendall or Gigi in their next campaign? And for the ‘rank and file’ models who may not be able to afford to have special licensing over their likeness, what becomes of them?
More terrifyingly, we’ve seen the impact of filters, social media, and editing tools on mental health, body image and how heavily it has impacted what is considered aesthetically pleasing or beautiful. I shudder to think what the world would become when we can no longer discern who in a brand campaign is ‘real’ vs generated. We’ve had the whole ethical debate about representation and diversity, and many of us pushed so hard to make sure that campaigns didn't just include 1 contrived view of ‘beauty’. Digital models could potentially propagate unrealistic beauty standards and undo all of that hard work, unless programmed with a deep understanding of inclusivity and human diversity (which, sadly to say, I don't even think we have achieved as humans quite yet!).
I’m overall an AI optimist. After reading Mo Gawdat’s book “Scary Smart” I do many of the upsides (but also, as he suggested, I always thank ChatGPT after using it, so in case they do rule the world, maybe they are nice to me). I mean, Photoshop didn't replace photographers but instead became a tool in their arsenal, so I guess (hope) generative AI could enhance the modelling industry rather than obliterate it.
I really believe that human models have a number of things that AI can't (currently) replace - the key one being - authenticity (as much as I hate that most overused word). The nuances of human emotion, movement, and imperfection are, as of now, beyond the reach of AI, and most of the generative content I see still looks ‘fake’ enough for identification, but I'm sure that’s only months away from changing.
Generative AI in the modelling industry, probably like many others, is a double-edged sword. It presents an incredible array of opportunities for innovation, efficiency, creative expression, experimentation, and environmental sustainability. Yet, it also poses significant challenges to employment, ethical standards, and the preservation of human uniqueness in the fashion world. The key will be in finding a balance, leveraging AI's capabilities to augment rather than replace the human touch that brings fashion to life. How do we find a way to harness all the good AI could bring to this industry, while offsetting all the terrifying? How do we do this quickly, so that the short-term damage isn't so detrimental that the long-term benefits are far too late to offset these? We really sucked at understanding the harm social media was doing until it was too late.
I hope this time we can think through the second and third-order impacts of generative AI in this industry (and many others, but selfishly for now, I'm focusing on mine) before rushing to embrace every element of it in the hope of cost savings.
In the meantime, I’ll be thanking my AI tools while googling remote islands off grid for my sped-up retirement plan, call me when you know which way this is all going…